wayfaringwordhack: (Default)
FYI: Today is not my birthday, Wed was.


Since buying our home, we have seriously cut down on travel and days-away-from-here, mostly because of having animals. 

However, we have been wanting to take to the kids to where we lived after leaving Paris and decided my birthday would be a good occasion/excuse to do so.

Being self-proclaimed freeloading plebeians, we decided to picnic, cookout, and camp as we visited our old haunts. For the occasion, the unseasonably warm temperatures and lack of rain turned out to be blessings.

We first drove to La Borne, a potter's village some 20 minutes from Sancerre. Here is a link to a French Wikipedia article for anyone who reads French. A record of the oldest known pottery oven existing around there dates from 1260, just to let you know the heritage of the place. Today it has ceramists and potters from all over the world living there and in the environs. While it was nice to revisit it, this trip was not our best experience there. Many things were closed, and I got an overall dilapidated feeling from the village.  While there were some truly gorgeous and fresh pieces to be seen at some of the ateliers, many artists were still doing the same things from 10 years ago.  Pottery can have a timeless feel, but certain glazes, forms, and colors become quickly outdated, to my taste at least. Still, we were happy to offer the kids commemorative bowls* for my birthday, and I found a water pitcher that was both practical and pretty enough to come home with me.  J got a couple of bowls to match those the kids picked out and some new raku espresso cups. Here are a few of the pieces:

IMG_6102.jpg
IMG_5962.jpg
 
 
Exterior as of 12 Sept 2019
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* They had seen several things they liked, but being 8, 5, and 3 respectively, we settled on buying them things which were less expensive and as sturdy as one can get where pottery is concerned. 


**Which has now become a holiday house rental

wayfaringwordhack: (footprint in the sand)
Part 1 of this "glimpse" here.  Not that I'm going in any kind of logical order, but that's where the first photos are.

I should have begun with a bit of historical context perhaps, not the history of Guédelon, but the history of France where this "archaeological experiment" slots in. However, that means recalling things that the guide told us, and since I always seem to find myself trying to write these posts near midnight, my mental prowess is not at its peak. Alas. (FYI, I began this post three--four? make that at least five six with LJ's current problems--days ago; that's how hard it is for me to find the time to get it written up.)

So, begging pardon if I misremember something:

Guédelon is an example of the architectural style Philip II Augustus instated and imposed on his vassals, the principle characteristics being (from the Guédelon website):

1) a polygonal ground plan {Me:  If memory serves, of some 1000+ "philippien" castles, only 4 were/are perfect squares. I’m sure the number of overall castles was much higher, but I prefer to err on the modest side};

2) high stone curtain walls, often built on battered plinths;

3) a dry ditch {Me: According to our guide, a "moat" with water in it was not that common during this period, water actually being easier to cross than a dry ditch filled with traps or briars, not to mention that copious amounts of water were not available everywhere and rerouting rivers, etc. to fill the moats was costly.  Water-filled moats later came into fashion as a way for lords to flaunt their wealth};

4) round flanking towers pierced with arrow loops, the positions of which are staggered on each floor of the tower {Me: Each tower always had arrowslits--see photo below--that allowed archers to fire along the walls it flanked, or "flanking fire."  Woe to those who tried to scale said walls};

5) one corner tower, the great tower or tour maîtresse, higher and larger than the rest, acts as the donjon {Me: The donjon is the first tower to be built. That way the people have a place to take refuge in in case of attack};

6) a chatelet with twin drum towers protecting the gate.

The efficacity of Philip's design is most tellingly illustrated by this map showing France before and after his conquests:


Image via Wikipedia
 
Red = England's toe foot- and handhold / Green and blue = French, with blue denoting the crown's lands, specifically / Yellow = Church domains

Not only did the architectural style help regain land and defend against English attacks, it quelled the French nobles' desire to annex their neighbors' castles.  Knowing one's enemy's home has the same insurmountable traps and tricks as one's own is apparently a terrific deterrent.  

During our first visit to Guédelon in 2004, our tour was much different due to the state of progress, which has since evolved, so we spent more time learning about the defenses. Our guide took us through the postern and tointed out the traps and tricks employed to keep an attacker from success: a step forcing an attacker to lift his foot when going through a doorway while a low lintel made him duck his head; holes in the ceiling that things could be dropped through; holes in the sides where swords or spears could pierce or slow those trying to make it through the narrow passage; or staircases that "turn" the wrong way, meaning a man could not fight and climb at the same time because, the left hand being of the Devil, an attacker would only be using his right hand...

An arrowslit or arrow loop from inside the tower:


The walls are 3.5 meters thick, and the mortar is still drying inside; in fact, the mortar is still drying in castles built while Philip II Augustus was alive because it takes a centuries for air to reach the middle of such a thick wall. That allows the walls time to settle, contrary to concrete, which dries too fast, and that is a wonderful thing to prevent your walls from cracking and your stones from tumbling down.


 
No detail is neglected at Guédelon, not even the "toilet." When you lift the wooden slat there, you see that the hole drilled through the stone drops down along the castle wall. Yet another reason you don't want to be in that dry ditch, attacking the castle.

Hollywood and fiction are talking bullocks, said our guide, when they show enemies quickly conquering a castle.*

_________
* From Wikipedia: Scholars debate the scope of the word castle, but usually consider it to be the private fortified residence of a lord or noble. This is distinct from a palace, which is not fortified, from a fortress, which was not always a residence for nobility, and from a fortified town, which was a public defence – though there are many similarities between these types of construction. Usage of the term has varied over time and has been applied to structures as diverse as hill forts and country houses.
wayfaringwordhack: (footprint in the sand)
I'm woefully behind on posts I'd like to make; this one, for example, dates to Father's Day, but I have others that go even further back.  Nothing for it but to jump right in.

Julien gave me a wonderful first Mother's Day, stepping in skillfully for a daughter still too young to truly show how she appreciates me (as appreciate and love me she must, non?), and I wanted to do likewise for Father's Day. I was thwarted by the weather, however, and suggested we visit Guédelon. (I encourage you to click on the link, where a very brief video will pop up explaining the concept and giving some nifty images.  it should be in English; if not, there will be an English option on the page.)

Seeing as how this was our fourth visit to Guédelon since coming to the region the first time in 2003, I was sure I had commented on it before, and indeed I did, five years ago to the day.* I wasn't particularly eloquent last time, though, and shared no photos, so I thought to remedy, giving you a true glimpse of this lovely French endeavor.

Given the late hour, I'll mostly let the pictures do the talking, but if anyone is interested in learning more, let me know and I'll find the time to go into more detail.  

(click for an even larger image to see details)

Guédelon has all the necessary artisans: stonecutters, carpenters, basket makers, blacksmiths, the list goes on. All the door handles, ornaments, and nails above, the blacksmith** pictured made using the tools and methods that would have been available to his predecessors in the 13th century.

By researching illuminations and texts from the past, as well as stained glass windows in cathedrals (each guild usually paid to have their profession represented), the historians working with the project are able to make decent conjectures about tools, typical worker's garb, etc.

Ok, crying baby calls. Hope you find this glimpse interesting. :)


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* Would have been to the day if I hadn't started writing the post so late. :P

** Or one like him.  Lots of artisans and volunteers pass through Guédelon each year, but many stick around. I know because we have a photo of a man from five years ago, and we saw him again this time around.

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