wayfaringwordhack: (frangipani)
I made a galette des rois yesterday.  And all the filling leaked out.  Ugh.  Since I had invited G over to eat it with us, I had to make another, pronto.  This one turned out much better and very tasty. 


galette2023.jpeg

Not my prettiest, but probably my puffiest. :D

With my leftover puff pastry (homemade, thank you very much), I made a much smaller version for J to take to work on Friday to share with his colleague.


And because I am on snack duty at church this Saturday, I think I will make a giant one, capable of serving many people.  In France whenever you attend a "fête des voeux" with a larger gathering, the galette is rectangular instead of the traditional round form, so that is what I will do...  There is a lot of butter in my future.

A little anecdote:  The link above goes to an entry about the second galettes I made, back when we lived in Egypt.  That means the first time I made a galette des rois was almost 10 years ago.  That is just crazy.  I have no sense--despite having kids that are a growing and constant witness to the passage of time--that that much has passed.  I have a better picture of the above pictured cake, but this one was taken out on our terrace, reminding me of photographing this one out on our teeny tiny balcony in our first Egyptian flat.  :P 

The frangipani icon is for  you, [personal profile] asakiyume , in reference to our long-long ago convo on the other post. :P



wayfaringwordhack: (Default)
 We have begun moving things to the new flat. :D

One of the bedrooms has been cleaned and has a lock on the door, and we have our own set of keys now.

The landlady's cleaning lady is there and so far, I believe I am going to be doing some cleaning myself.  I saw her cleaning the front door, then went back an hour later and see that the door looks "like it has been cleaned" but not like "it is clean," if you understand the difference.  The baseboards in the living room will be another test.  She hasn't swept and mopped* in there yet, but something tells me, the smudges will stay on the walls and the baseboards will not be cleaned of their 10 years of dust.  We'll see.  She isn't my cleaning lady and I am not paying her, so I don't feel comfortable pointing out how things could be done better.  

A bit of bad news:  Someone tried to break into the apartment and forced one of the windows.  It is one of three** that doesn't have bars, so the owners are going to get some installed there.  I hate living with bars everywhere, but it is the price to pay for having a ground-floor flat.

A bit of I-hope-I-am-wrong news:  I feel like I am coming down with something.  I have had an itchy throat for two days and last night, I woke up coughing.  Today, I feel like I need to lie down because my energy just plummeted.  I have taken essential oils and am right now doing a round on the nebulizer*** in hopes of staving off whatever this is. 

Now is not the time to get sick.

_________________

* All floors are either marble or tile.
** The other two have electric shutters, but the shutters weren't down.  However, those two windows are on the front of the building and anyone up to no good is more likely to be seen forcing an entry there.
*** which is why I have the time to type this up. :P
wayfaringwordhack: (art - guitton housework)
Bought a sofa today--it has to be made and should be ready in 15 days--and on our way to the moneychangers,* we saw a mattress shop selling the same brand that we had just seen across town.  Deciding to divide and conquer, J went to change the money and I popped into the mattress shop to compare prices.  The very nice saleswoman proceeded to totally baffle me.

After determining that she speaks French, I asked the price of the mattress.  She told me it is around $400; I asked her to repeat it, making sure she understood the measurements I needed, and she said it was $500-$600.  OK.  Then I asked if she had some sheets, and she showed me the sizes I wanted, saying "They are $20."

Just then J walked in, so I showed him the sheets.  He asked the lady for a business card and the price of the sheets.  She told him $25! ...

So, I told him to ask her the price of the mattress, and she said $700!  I decided at that rate, it wasn't worth asking for confirmation or a written quote. :P

Tomorrow, someone should be at the flat, and we will get a copy of the key so we can come and go with our things.  Friends have offered to take the boys on Tuesday and Wednesday, and other friends have offered to help with the move.  

Looking forward to progress!

_________
* We only had euros, but the store wanted dollars.

wayfaringwordhack: (pondering)
Had an art date with H today, in which there was no art.  But!  There was goal setting and just overall nice conversation while her husband took our kids to a nearby park.  H and I decided to set goals to achieve within the next three months; but for the most part, I want to get my stated stuff done by year's end.  If I don't, no biggie, of course, because we are going for a three-month stretch.  I want to see if I *can* accomplish things by certain dates to judge how much, if at all, I struggle with the time frame and so forth.

So, I came away from the date with the following goals, divided into three creative areas (I should have put "finish cardigan" in there :P ).

Fiction:
Write three chapters of TKB by Dec 31

Writing and Illustration:

- Find photos (online) of 5 people to use as inspiration and paint them in an illustrative style for children's book in prep for the character design workshop on Dec 12.

- make a blank  insta-book ('zine) for our trip this month in which I can do travel-inspired sketches in.  My goal is to make one, but I think I would like to do two: One with plain white paper and another with different colored backgrounds/underpaintings (probably gouache) that I can sketch or paint on if so inspired by color, mood, etc on location. (This is going to happen around 19-27 Nov)

Fine Art:

I would like to work on art in general as well as illustration, and to that end, I aim to make three landscape paintings (small, and on paper if I so desire) before Jan 31. My end goal is not to have something to hang on our walls, but I would like if I made something I was happy to display.

When I got home, I did some character research and then started on a landscape exercise (acrylic on toned paper with a red underpainting).  I hope to finish it up tomorrow, but here is what I got done tonight.  

art - landscape - araya.jpeg
 

Acrylic is not easy to photograph, and of course, I have the added difficulty of taking a pic at night AND having a crappy phone camera.  You can squint and imagine it is focused. :P  This is from a photo taken at the park where L and kids went to play today.  They stayed at the playground this time, but we usually take the path featured above to a stream where the kids like to build forts and catch crabs and newts and toads, oh my!
wayfaringwordhack: (Default)
Let's take a moment to admire that beautiful, beautiful water behind my feet in the icon that accompanies this post.  Sadly, this entry will not feature any such water.

I don't need to rehash the problems we've had since living in this flat, but in case you've missed the previous rants, have memory problems, or are a masochist, you can read a smattering here and here.  Some problems are exclusive to this flat, some are tied to the building, and others to the country and its lack of infrastructure/current crisis.

Needless to say, the situation is a mess.  Somewhat like this:

hot mess.jpeg


That is our rooftop, where individual tanks stock water for each flat.  There is a central cistern beneath the building, which we'll come back to later.  This is the sight that greets you as soon as you climb onto the roof, and in order to access your tank, say to check the water level or admire its lack of cleanliness (we will also get back to this), you have to carefully step in those openings you see on the right.  The clearer space you see on the left is inaccessible until you have reached that gray tank in the center at the top of the photo.  Anyhow, before you get to admire that bit of ingenuity, you have to climb this sorry excuse for a ladder:


ladder.jpeg



That broken rung has broken and been repaired several times since we moved in. One time, it broke beneath me. :-/.  Thankfully, I had a good grip on the uprights.

Anyhow, when we moved in, our landlord said he had paid the natour to clean our personal tank. She said she did, but did not.  Then it turns out, she cleaned "someone's tank, thinking it was ours."  Which is BS because she had to climb to the roof many times per week and move a hose between the tanks to fill them, so she knew full well which flats she was filling for.  Bon, the tank was filthy and thus remained because she never got around to doing the job before she left, leaving me, ill-equipped, the task of cleaning it during one of our waterless spells.


filthy tank.jpeg

This is the water we flush our toilets with, the water we wash our clothes with, the water we wash our dishes, bodies, and teeth with...
...
...

My boys look happy to be on the tank because they weren't astride it for three solid houses, moving gunk with inadequate tools and no way to rinse the tank's interior.

water tank.jpeg



"Gunk?" you ask.  Yes, this gunk:

gunk.jpeg



Anyhow, that is all backstory to today's post.  Yesterday, our neighbor, B, whom we have given access to our tank on the roof--pumping into his tank, too,  when we fill ours--came to tell us that the main cistern was almost out of water and we had better start pumping to get it "before someone else does."  Which, you know, I don't really like the selfishness of, but B has a baby and is understandably worried about providing for his family. And he is Lebanese and knows the Lebanese mentality.

We turned on the pump, and the water pressure arriving in our tank seemed all right for a while.  When J later went back to check, the water was arriving in sporadic bursts.  This morning, the pressure was still weird.  I, who have been to the building's basement most recently, offered to go down and check on the state of things.  Imagine my shock when I saw the secondary reservoir that our landlord had promised to install! was empty and had no pump attached to it.  I feared someone had stolen the pump. 

While down there, investigating, I saw a pipe leaking precious water all over the floor.  Just great, I thought, shoddy work and now resources are going to waste.  But that amount of water did not account for all the wetness farther away.  Or the smell.  Just as I was getting ready to take a photo of some water motors, a great stream of filthy water started pouring out of a sewage pipe, right by the building's clean water cistern.  I will spare you the 50-second video I then recorded of this horror and just show you this photo instead:

sewage.jpeg



As you can see from the stain down the wall and the water motors nicely lifted out of the worst of the filth, THIS IS NOT A NEW THING!  There were even stepping stones set up across the "stream" of sewage.

Did you know that there is a cholera epidemic in Lebanon right now?  And we have sewage raining down right over our cistern.  See that concrete block behind the tank just below the large taped-up pipe?  THAT is our building's cistern.  :(

We messaged our landlord, explained the problem, pointing out that as a medical doctor he should be only too aware of the health risks.  In the ensuing messaging, he admitted that the resevoir he promised to install had NEVER been set up. That green motor receiving all the splash back of sewage is the one that gets *our* water to *our* tank on the roof.

Color me disgusted.


wayfaringwordhack: (art - guitton housework)
So we got our hot water pressure back Saturday, which means we can have HOT or COLD showers with decent pressure now but no normal, warm showers. Such is life in this flat.

While the landlord was here, water started leaking from a crack in the ceiling. Apparently, Noisy New Neighbors above us have cracks in the tiles of their bathroom that let water through.

Landlord says that no one is happy with the job the natour is doing, and they plan to fire him. They will then hire a man who will come with his wife, and SHE will do a good job cleaning. Ugh.

I sat on the sidelines and started my cardigan tonight while my kiddos played football (soccer) at our weekly Family Football Game. I was able to get the gauge with a 6mm hook, so I don't need to borrow back the 6.5mm hook I gave to my friend's daughter. :P

We made our final offer on a flat here in our village that has a garden. The landlady is taking her sweet time in getting back to us, so we visited another flat last night. It was rather meh. I really wish I would have taken a picture of the frieze in the entryway. Here is a photo from a search engine:



But the angle doesn't do it justice. It is probably about 4 feet wide.

And I will end on a Hurrah that is probably premature, but we are currently having only one 2-hour electricity cut during the day right now. :D
wayfaringwordhack: (art - guitton housework)
Gripe 1) The Obnoxious Natour - we had another "incident" with the natour.  J got stuck in the lift a few days after we arrived back in Lebanon. (You would think we wouldn't use it.  The kids don't; they are smarter than we adults, but living on the fifth floor makes it so tempting.) After frantically trying to get him out myself and asking a neighbor for help, I knocked on the natour's (dark) door, hoping he was home and I could make him understand.  Well, it turns out he was home but sleeping and did not take well to me needing his help.  With a disgusted look, he proceeded to unblock the lift, giving me a further dirty look and shooing me away when I tried to get closer to see exactly what he was doing.  Not caring that he couldn't understand me, I told him I did not appreciate his attitude.  He understood my countenance and tone if not my words and smirked a bit.  I was on the phone with J the whole time, so when he got out, he asked the guy if he had a problem with me.  The natour made out like it was the lift that was the problem.  However, ever since then, he leaves our garbage in front of our door for at least 2 days before collecting.  Since we eat fish everynight, this is not good.  But our landlord is coming by today to collect rent, and I am going to have 4 bags stinky garbage to show and HE can talk to the natour. 

It will be just my luck if the natour breaks habit and picks up the stuff early.  (He angrily told our neighbor that he works 7pm-7am and we shouldn't disturb him any other time.  Well, Mister We-Pay-You-for-Nothing, you were ON DUTY when we arrived at 5 a.m. and needed help with the elevator and our bags

Gripe 2: Noisy Neighbors - Night before last, I had to go upstairs at 11:40 p.m. to ask our neighbors to please keep down the noise.  They have two boys (between 2 and 4, I think) whom they let stay up until all hours, and it was a free-for-all right above our beds.  They nicely took care of it.  But last night, before I went to bed (around 9 because I was so wiped out from the previous bad night), they were making noise that sounded, I kid you not, like fighter jets flying overhead.  Knowing it was too early to complain, I went to bed anyhow, praying it would soon cease.  It did.  However, they woke me from sleep at 1:40 a.m. with more shouting, squealing, banging...and I was wearing earplugs.  I wasn't the only one in the family to be awakened by them.  Even the kids and J complained this morning, and they all sleep like stones. :-/

Gripe 3 - What is this Hot Water you speak of? - We, yet again, do not have hot water...and have not had since Tuesday. There is something wrong with the pump, and if we try to use hot water, it comes out as such a faint trickle that it seeps down the shower tiles, and we can't even wet ourselves.  So, we are back to showering with a bucket (We let the water trickle for about 30 minutes into a bucket and then scoop and pour it over ourselves) or, for those with a membership, using the pool facilities to get clean...  The landlord, as I mentioned, is coming by today with a plumber, so one can hope that this latest annoyance is almost at an end.

HURRAH! - The temperatures and humidity have improved, making a fan at night almost obsolete, and meaning that there are less people using A/Cs, etc.  As a result, for the second day in a row, we have a nice view of Beirut and the sea.  Two photos for comparison: 


polluted skies.jpeg




cleaner skies.jpeg




The photos were taken at different times of the day, but you can still see the difference in pollution levels.
wayfaringwordhack: (art - guitton housework)
...that living in this flat is a pain.  I don't want my blog just to be about negative sorts of things, which is why I haven't moaned regularly about life in this apartment, but since we are moving away at last (well, we will move away as soon as we find an alternative), I figure it is time to talk about why.

First off all, this discontent has been going on from the very beginning, starting with the water situation; and at the time, I pointed out some positives about why I did not want to throw in the towel just yet on this address, which you can read about here.

In no particular order, the some of the problems are:

=WATER=

After 7.5 months, we have yet to have a normal, "agreeable" shower in this place.  This is due to 4 5 6 reasons: 

1) the water temperature.  Either your water is hot, or it is cold. Warm does not exist. Tepid is out of the question.  Our water temperature gauge does not go above 99 degrees CELSIUS! so I cannot give an exact number for the scalding water that we have had to deal with before our landlord shielded some of the captor tubes; however, the water still regularly gets up to 72 C.  

2) it takes forever for the hot water to arrive, like 15-to-20-liters-of-water-down-the-drain forever. (Which also means we never have hot water for washing our dishes unless we want to boil it.  This could be its own separate point).  We obviously do not let the water just go to waste. We keep it in buckets/bottles for flushing, watering plants, rinsing off... But the landlord says, "Water isn't expensive! It doesn't matter!"  ARGH

3) We can't use the shower in our own bathroom because some genius left a huge gap between the shower lip and the door, so water floods the bathroom while you shower no matter how many towels or sponges you try to cram into the gap to sop it all up.  So after you shower you, you have to clean the floor...

4) AFTER you have squeegied all the water down the drain because the genius masons did not plan proper slope in the Italian-style showers, and so the drain is actually a tad HIGHER than the surrounding tile, meaning it will stagnate in the shower unless you scrape it all down the drain yourself.

5) The bathroom we are forced to use smells permanently of sewage because of the plumbing system.  I do not now how much cleaner I have poured down it, just trying to disguise the reek.

6) The water pressure has a mind of its own. For some reason, in the guest bathroom, we can no longer get more than a trickle out of the sink faucet, and in the shower, when you try to put only cold water, it does the same for several minutes before finally blasting out. 

For the sake of brevity, I will not go into the hoops that we had to jump through to get water to arrive at our flat on numerous occasions because of system failure (which in many instances was landlord failure to have gotten his system straight from the get-go), the many trips to the roof to try to figure it all out, the entire day I spent sweeping goop out of the reservoir...

=ARCHITECTURAL IDIOCY=

Aside from the aforementioned poor drainage in the shower, we have windows and doors that will not open all the way because of poor placement in regards to built-in furniture, radiators, ceiling cornices, and supporting beams.  There is also no apparent switch to turn on the light on the balcony... Even the landlord couldn't figure that one out.  He has never lived here.*  Just bought the place as an investment.  Also, in order to turn on the light in the dining room, you have to go upstairs because there is not a switch downstairs...where the dining room is.

=SERVICES/EXPECTATIONS IN ACCORDANCE WITH RENTAL PRICE=


This is one of the most expensive rentals we've ever lived in.  Because of that we actually expect some value for our payment, like a parking lot that isn't serving as a dump.  There is a literal dumpsite taking up a large part of the lot and a pile of sand/dirt that is now growing weeds and enough cat excrement to make one gag.

When we moved in, the elevator was working. Two days later, it stopped.  The landlord said that was too bad and if we wanted to use it, we would have to shell out the money. Um.  No.  Not OUR building.  

Also, we now have a new natour (concierge/building janitor), after 5 months of having no one, whom we pay who does NOT do his job and while the foyer occasionally looks clean, our stairs are never properly washed. 

The community lighting is never on in the building (we would be willing to pay) instead we have to walk into a completely dark building every night and use our phone flashlights to climb five flights of stairs that have no windows/skylights to aid us.  These lights do work, but NO ONE can tell us how to turn them on or where, but they were mysteriously in use when our never-there-next-door-neighbor wanted to move some stuff into his daughter's apartment on the floor below.  OK, we live with this, but it is a nightmare for our guests, especially little kids who are afraid to come to our house because of the lack of light.

There is double glazing on the big windows in the dining area, and one of the outer panes was busted** when we moved in. It is taped over; it is very ugly, but it is high up and not a window we can open, so we didn't make a fuss about it.  However, the latch on the window behind our bed was broken and condemned with masking tape.  Yes, masking tape.  Not even willing to put 10-20 bucks into fixing a latch for his tenants.  Remember all the heavy winter winds I spoke about?  Tape doesn't hold up, and the window constantly blew open.  Thankfully, J brought some vices from France that we have been able to use to hold it shut in a more permanent fashion. 

=LANDLORD'S DISHONESTY=

He has repeatedly made out that he had no idea about the water situation prior to our moving in.  We have spoken to the previous tenants--he had tried to make out that they left because they went back to Korea, which is not true--and they told us that he refused to fix the water for them, forcing them to boil their water for cleaning, etc.  Yet, he keeps bringing up to us his responsiveness and his goodwill in fixing all the problems, making it sound that everything is trying to thwart him.  We continue to hold this card, letting him tout his own goodness, blah, blah, blah.

He is trying to make  has made us pay for "breaking" his "new" washing machine.  Now, when you break something as a renter, it is normal that you should pay for it. However, in our experience and in that of other Lebanese people we have talked to, when it is an appliance that is in the flat that breaks down because of normal wear, it is up to the owner to fix it.  This is why we pay higher rent.  We did not break it; we used it.  And from day one it has made a weird noise, but being unfamiliar with the machine (and seeing that it was not new), I just shrugged and kept using it.

Turns out the bearings and spider (whatever that is) were totally broken and had been on the way out for some time. 

Seeing as our landlord was obviously going to interpret the contract in such a way that we are going to have to replace his appliances one by one as they fail to function, we told him we are leaving.  He was flabbergasted and said he would pay for the machine after all; he had only been upset before because it was "new."  When J called him on that, he said it was only 3 years old, then finally said "from 2016 but there were some moments when the flat was empty so it was practically new."  The repairman said it was definitely older than 10 years.

J told him we are not trying to bargain or get something from him, so thank you very much, we will pay for the machine ourselves but we are leaving because nothing in the contract says we can't.  However, we want to go on good terms.  The landlord went away sad, but he called back the next day and offered to pay for half of the repairs (remember he was going to pay for ALL of it before) but he wants us to stay until the end of the year marked out on our contract.

We paid for the machine ourselves, did not answer his message about staying, and have continued looking for a flat.  But now sickness has once again struck the family, slowing things down. We are paid up through September, so we have time, but like I mentioned, we are traveling to France for the last 3 weeks of September. I would have liked to have everything settled by then.  :-/

I think that is enough for now. *sigh*
___________________
* This will be our advice to him when we give him back his keys:  Live in the place yourself for a couple of weeks so you can see how uncomfortable and annoying these things are to put up with.

** An amusing what-do-you-take-me-for aside:  The break was blamed on the port blast; but there is absolutely no way, I mean NO WAY, given the distance, direction, any possible ricocheting, etc. that a projectile from the blast could have hit that window.  It is kilometers and kilometers from the site, we are hundreds of meters higher above sea-level, and the building faces the wrong way.  Just own up and say it was broken, and you don't EVER plan on fixing it. 
wayfaringwordhack: (art - guitton housework)
We are still looking for a flat, but our landlord has expressed his "preference" that we stay until the end of December.*

We continue to look.  And live in a weird sort of limbo.  

However, we have bought our tickets and will be going to France for 3 weeks in September.  The kids are wildly excited about going home and getting to be in their house with their things and see their friends and family.  They love all their new friends and their activities here, but they still miss what we left behind.  Sometimes, J and I (who have been uprooted pretty much from day one of our lives) sometimes forget how precious our place is to them.  We may or may not go back and spend more years in this place--and we have prepared the kids for that--but for now it is their touchstone, their happy place, their home.

______________
* We signed a one-year contract, but there is nothing in the document that says how to proceed if we want to leave earlier (no length of notice, etc.).  The contract's main purpose is to set the rent for 1 year to insure it can't be changed and to make sure the *owner* can't kick out the tenants.  Another flat-owner told us, as a lawyer, that our landlord has no legal backing to make us stay.  Maybe I will make another post about why we are leaving...


wayfaringwordhack: (Sprout !!!)
Appreciate the power pun as I talk to you about the electricity problem in Lebanon.

My usual disclaimer:  As I have said before, I am not an investigative reporter; I am just repeating conversations, information gleaned through exposés, and sharing my lived experience.

So, anyone who pays the least bit of attention to the news has probably heard of Lebanon's current crisis--"current" still meaning this goes back a couple of years; it just keeps going and keeps going.

Corruption* is a rampant issue in this country known to be one of the most corrupt on the planet.  In fact, one individual in a report I watched said that the port of Lebanon is probably the most corrupt place on earth.** Exaggeration?  I dunno, but it is the over-riding reason we did not ship any belongings here when we never scrupled to send them to Mayotte or Egypt, for example.*** 

And corruption is at the root of why Lebanon continues to have problems with electricity.  As I am typing this, we are in our "second" cut of the day.  The first is from 1:30ish a.m. to 5:30ish a.m.  The second starts a few minutes before 8 a.m. and used to end at 10 a.m.  Then it started ending at 10:30; now it is closer to 10:40, but you never know.  It stays on (except when it doesn't) until 12:00 p.m. 11:45 a.m. (this seems to be the norm since two weeks ago) and then is off again until 2:45 p.m. -3:00 p.m.  Recently, we had a couple of continuous cuts from 7:55 until 3:45.  Hello, sketchy food storage as the fridge and freezer struggle to deal with the constant cuts in power.

What does corruption have to do with all of this?  Why can't it be explained away by a poor country not having the means to upgrade and maintain its power system?  Well, the country may be poor, but it has been made so by the people in charge who are so far from poor themselves that it is obscene.  And they have found a way to get even richer.  Why would government officials make sure state-owned electrical plants are operational when they themselves have large shares in the fuel that powers the alternative, "privately-owned" generators, generators that kick on and start clicking up the bills when Lebanon Electricity "no longer has any juice"?  These officials not only control when the much-cheaper state power comes on, they control fuel import and prices. 

Let's say it together, class:  Conflict of interest. 

Knowing how to grease their own wheels, they turn a blind eye to the supposedly illegal private generator operators.  These operators, dressed to the nines, owning Rolexs(?) and Jaguars (a watch can be a convincing knock-off, but a car is harder to fake), assured the investigative reporter that they are doing an honorable service, just "helping out the public" with their "completely safe" piggyback installation. (Now picture electrical wires running willy-nilly, criss-crossing one another low enough for a clumsy person or anyone with a mind for mischief to yank free/cut.)  I am sure that the guys following them around like lackeys were just family wanting to be on camera and not the mafia goons they looked like.

Because none of these public servants has any vested interest in serving the public, the electrical woes look set to continue for some time.

Ok, so that is when we have elec and where the elec comes from. Now let's talk about how much because not only do you have a limited time access to power, you also have a limited number of amperes according to where you live and how much you dish out.  We have 10 amps.  This means I can run the fridge, the water pump (to have good water pressure), and the washing machine at the same time, but if I turn on the dryer, Lights Out.  A space heater sends every fuse to flipping if you have more than the fridge and the router turned on at the same time (You can have a few lights).  When the elec goes off, you have to ask yourself, "Are we trying to run too much, or is this a general cut?"  We either go the landing of the flat below us to see if the light is on because G keeps it burning all time. (No "common area lighting" in the stairs, so you have to go up the five flights with your flashlight --no windows--and say a silent thanks to G as you pass her landing and the light it provides).  If we have blown a fuse, you have to unplug something, go to the ground floor, and flip the breaker for your flat.  We have grown fairly used to what we can and can't run, so this hardly happens to us any more.  

And now you know about the power issues I may have alluded to once or thrice.

________________
* The New York Times has an article, which you can listen to entitled "How Corruption Ruined Lebanon."  I had free access to the audio on my phone but it isn't working on my laptop.  According to Wikipedia's Perceptions Corruption Index, Lebanon ranks 154 out of 180 countries.

**  Reuters has an article about the corruption at the port which is much worth reading for an overview.  One paragraph states: "...17 out of Lebanon's 21 shipping line companies have links to politicians via their board members, managers or shareholders."

Port anecdote (second-hand) about one of J's colleagues--let's call him Pierre--who chose to ship his belongings:  Pierre moved over with his family, so he shipped his furniture, appliances, and personal effects via ship then rented an unfurnished flat.  His shipment arrived but was blocked at port.  Hotels bills adding up quickly, Pierre moved his family to a furnished flat, thinking to pay perhaps one month's rent while waiting for his affairs to be cleared. However, no amount of phone calls could unblock the situation, and Pierre continued to pay on his unfurnished AND furnished flats.  Finally he went to the port in person and asked, "How much?" Notice it was no longer a question of "What?"  A financial contribution on his part was indeed needed.  I can't remember the exact amount and don't want to misquote anything, but I know it had at least a thousand digit in it. :(  Bribe paid, his cargo was mysteriously and fortuitously unblocked within the day.  

The port is the place to be employed.  Nepotism and string pulling happen all the time to secure someone a position there because the opportunity for personal gain is enormous.

*** In fact, a company we have shipped with twice refused to even give us a quote, hemming, hawing and failing to get back to us on numerous occasions.  We thought it was because we were going to ship so little, but it turns they just don't like doing business with the Beirut port because of all the Things That Go Wrong and the dissatisfied customers who think it is their fault rather than customs here.  That info was obtained off the record, not by us but by the colleague who relayed Pierre's story.
wayfaringwordhack: (art - guitton housework)
The New Year saw us waking up in our very own flat.*  We moved in a bit later than planned but much faster than we were able to do so in Egypt.  We have landed in Louaize, a "village/suburb" on the outskirts of Beirut.  The great thing is that G (our** Lebanese cousin) lives right down*** the street from us, and her sister, parents, and brother are within a stone's throw, too.  Our American friends from Egypt, it turns out, are a 20 minute walk uphill, or a 5 minute drive.  That still remains ever-so-much better than the friend situation in France.

J has just left for his first night of work, and I need to do a bit more cleaning on the flat, hence the icon on this post.  However, aside from making beds with newly-bought and newly-laundered sheets, I don't think I'll do much tonight.  We did a lot today, and the place almost looks like home.  It would feel more like home if we had hot water, but the hot water pump is broken and we can't get another until Monday at the earliest.  Either I will heat water on the gas stove**** to wash my hair and sponge bathe until then, or I will go to G's place to shower.  It is not freezing here, but a cold shower is NOT in my future. :P

How is your New Year shaping up?

____________________________



* I wanted to share pics of the view, but that is beyond me at this moment. :P
** I am claiming G as my own even though she is J's cousin by marriage to HIS cousin...
*** Literally downhill, since Louaize sits on a hill, culminating at about 850m above sea-level.  We can see both the sea and snowy peaks from the north side of our flat.
**** We have daily power cuts so electric kettles are not as good of an investment as a good ol' whistling stove-top kettle.

wayfaringwordhack: (Default)
 Saying hello from Roissy in Paris, in transit to Beirut.  It has, as usual, been an exciting start to the day: taxi 1h10min late; almost had to leave personal affairs that cost several hundred euros behind because the security check personnel feared they could be weapons.  ETA:  I forgot to mention that some "little clever pants," as the pilot called them were flying their drones around Roissy and we couldn't land for 30 minutes.  That put no wrenches in our works because we had a planned 5-hour delay before our next flight, but it wasn't fun for others needing to make a connection. :-/

But J's colleagues should meet us in Beirut and keep us from further hassles with customs, etc.  Another colleague has already got J a sim card with Internet and has some Lebanese cash waiting for us.  J's cousin by marriage is letting us sleep at her place and we visit a flat not far from hers* at noon tomorrow.

Here is to a slightly more-connected me.  Not making promises, but I really want to journal what we do more faithfully for my memories, our friends back in France, and to be more in contact with all of you in this phase of our life.

_____________________
* The flat is also a five-minute walk from some friends we made in Cairo, who now live in Lebanon, and who have 4 kiddos, two very close in age to Sprout and Farmer Boy.  We are looking forward to meeting up with them again and doing life with friends within walking distance. What a change that will be from the one-hour drive (minimum) we had here in France.

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